Ecofeminist Kitchens: Reimagining Professional Kitchens as Spaces of Sustainable Foodwork

Adele Wylie

doi:10.14198/fem.2024.44.13

Autores/as

Adele Wylie University of Reading Henley Business Shool, Reino Unido https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4200-526X

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.14198/fem.2024.44.13

Palabras clave:

ecofeminismo, género, gastronomía, sostenibilidad, cocineros profesionales, cocinas profesionales, animales

Resumen

Las cocinas profesionales son tanto productoras como consumidoras de alimentos y muchas operan mediante prácticas insostenibles con un importante impacto social y ecológico. Socialmente, son espacios de trabajo mal remunerado y bajo condiciones de presión, donde la discriminación ocupacional por género es común. De una perspectiva ecológica, la producción de alimentos en estos espacios contribuye significativamente a la demanda de producción de carne poco ética y a la mercantilización de la naturaleza a nivel mundial. El objetivo principal de este artículo es reimaginar las cocinas profesionales como espacios de trabajo alimentario sostenible y equitativo. Para ello, esta investigación combina un análisis empírico de la relación entre género, poder y sostenibilidad en las cocinas profesionales de Glasgow con un examen crítico desde la perspectiva ecofeminista. En Glasgow, se recopilaron datos a través de entrevistas semiestructuradas con jefes de cocina, hombres y mujeres, sobre las prácticas y normas cotidianas (in)sostenibles de los chefs profesionales y las formas en que se entrelazan con el género. Esta investigación encontró que las cocinas están organizadas de manera que normalizan la masculinidad tóxica, quitan el poder a las mujeres y dañan gravemente a los demás seres no humanos. Además, se ha demostrado que la falta de conocimientos ecológicos en las cocinas profesionales es un factor importante de comportamientos insostenibles. Basándose en estudios ecofeministas, este artículo continúa imaginando qué cambios se necesitan para una transformación sostenible y equitativa en las cocinas profesionales. Con base en este compromiso teórico, sostengo que transformar las cocinas profesionales requiere una redistribución del poder entre los géneros para erradicar las jerarquías sexistas. Además, es necesario descentrar el beneficio económico para dejar espacio a una ética de la compasión que cumpla con nuestras obligaciones morales hacia los demás, tanto humanos como no humanos.

Citas

Aavik, K., & Velgan, M. (2021). Vegan Men’s Food and Health Practices: A Recipe for a More Health-Conscious Masculinity? American Journal of Men’s Health, 15(5), 15579883211044324. https://doi.org/10.1177/15579883211044323

Adams, C. J. (1975). The oedible complex: Feminism and vegetarianism. The Lesbian Reader, 23-30.

Adams, C. J. (1990). The Sexual Politics of Meat: A Feminist-Vegetarian Critical Theory. Continuum.

Adams, C. J. (1991). Ecofeminism and the Eating of Animals. Hypatia, 6(1), 125-145. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1527-2001.1991.tb00213.x

Adams, C. J., & Gruen, L. (2021). Ecofeminism: Feminist intersections with other animals and the earth. Bloomsbury Publishing USA.

Alon, T., Doepke, M., Olmstead-Rumsey, J., & Tertilt, M. (2020a). The impact of COVID-19 on gender equality. National Bureau of economic research. https://doi.org/10.3386/w26947

Alon, T., Doepke, M., Olmstead-Rumsey, J., & Tertilt, M. (2020b). This time it’s different: The role of women’s employment in a pandemic recession. National Bureau of Economic Research. https://doi.org/10.3386/w27660

Ball, A., & Milne, M. (2005). «Sustainability and management control». In Berry,. A., Broadbent, J., Otley, D.T. (Eds.) Management Control: Theories, Issues and Performance, Second edition (pp. 314-337). Red Globe Press London.

Barnes, C. (2017). Mediating good food and moments of possibility with Jamie Oliver: Problematising celebrity chefs as talking labels. Geoforum, 84, 169-178. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geoforum.2014.09.004

Batat, W. (2020). How Michelin-starred chefs are being transformed into social bricoleurs? An online qualitative study of luxury foodservice during the pandemic crisis. Journal of Service Management, Vol. 32 No. 1, pp. 87-99. https://doi.org/10.1108/JOSM-05-2020-0142

Baxter, P., & Jack, S. (2008). Qualitative Case Study Methodology: Study Design and Implementation for Novice Researchers. E Qualitative Report, 13(4), 544-559. https://doi.org/10.46743/2160-3715/2008.1573

Bell, D., & Hollows, J. (2011). From River Cottage to Chicken Run: Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and the class politics of ethical consumption. Celebrity Studies, 2(2), 178-191. https://doi.org/10.1080/19392397.2011.574861

Benschop, Y., & Verloo, M. (2011). «Gender change, organizational change, and gender equality strategies». In: Emma Jeanes, David Knights and Patricia Yancey-Martin (Eds): Handbook of gender, work and organization (pp. 277-290). Wiley.

Bertella, G. (2018). «Animals off the menu: How animals enter the vegan food experience». In Kline, C. (Ed) Animals, Food, and Tourism (pp. 67-81). Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315265209

Bertella, G. (2020). Re-thinking sustainability and food in tourism. Annals of Tourism Research, 84, 103005. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.annals.2020.103005

Bezerra, I. N., Curioni, C., & Sichieri, R. (2012). Association between eating out of home and body weight. Nutrition Reviews, 70(2), 65-79. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1753-4887.2011.00459.x

Biernacki, P., & Waldorf, D. (1981). Snowball sampling: Problems and techniques of chain referral sampling. Sociological Methods & Research, 10(2), 141-163. https://doi.org/10.1177/004912418101000205

Birch, J., Burn, C., Schnell, A., Browning, H., & Crump, A. (2021). Review of the Evidence of Sentience in Cephalopod Molluscs and Decapod Crustaceans. https://www.lse.ac.uk/news/news-assets/pdfs/2021/sentience-in-cephalopod-molluscs-and-decapod-crustaceans-final-report-november-2021.pdf

Blay-Palmer, A., Carey, R., Valette, E., & Sanderson, M. R. (2020). Post COVID 19 and food pathways to sustainable transformation. Agriculture and Human Values, 37(3), 517-519. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10460-020-10051-7

Bloodhart, B., & Swim, J. K. (2020). Sustainability and consumption: What’s gender got to do with it. Journal of Social Issues, 76(1), 101-113. https://doi.org/10.1111/josi.12370

Brownhill, L., & Turner, T. E. (2020). Ecofeminist ways, ecosocialist means: Life in the post-capitalist future. Capitalism Nature Socialism, 31(1), 1-14. https://doi.org/10.1080/10455752.2019.1710362

Butler, J. (1990). Gender Trouble: Feminism and the subversion of indentity. Routledge.

Carlassare, E. (1994). Destabilizing the criticism of essentialism in ecofeminist discourse. Capitalism Nature Socialism, 5(3), 50-66. https://doi.org/10.1080/10455759409358597

Chen, L. (2014). The manifestations and symptoms of ecofeminism. Studies in Sociology of Science, 5(3), 95-100. https://doi.org/10.3968/5229

Cockburn, C. (1983). Brothers-Male Dominance and Technological Change. Pluto.

Cohoon, C. (2014). Ecofeminist food ethics. Encyclopedia of Food and Agricultural Ethics, 521-533. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-007-0929-4_459

Curtin, D. (1991). Toward an ecological ethic of care. Hypatia, 6(1), 60-74. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1527-2001.1991.tb00209.x

Curtin, D. (2021). Compassion and Being Human. In C. Adams and L.Gruen (ed), Ecofeminism: Feminist intersections with other animals and the earth (pp. 69-87). Bloomsbury Publishing USA.

d’Eaubonne, F. (1999). What could an ecofeminist society be? Ethics & the Environment, 4(2), 179-184. https://doi.org/10.1016/S1085-6633(00)88419-3

Dhir, A., Talwar, S., Kaur, P., & Malibari, A. (2020). Food waste in hospitality and food services: A systematic literature review and framework development approach. Journal of Cleaner Production, 270, 122861. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.122861

Fine, G. A. (1996). Justifying work: Occupational rhetorics as resources in restaurant kitchens. Administrative Science Quarterly, Vol. 41 No. 1, pp. 90-115. https://doi.org/10.2307/2393987

Fine, G. A. (2008). Kitchens: The culture of restaurant work. University of California Press. https://doi.org/10.1525/9780520942899

Finkelstein, J. (1989). Dining out: A sociology of modern manners. Polity Press.

Gaard, G. (1993). Living interconnections with animals and nature. Ecofeminism: Women, Animals, Nature, 1993, 1-12.

Gaard, G. (2002). Vegetarian ecofeminism: A review essay. Frontiers: A Journal of Women Studies, 23(3), 117-146. https://doi.org/10.1353/fro.2003.0006

Gaard, G. (2011). Ecofeminism revisited: Rejecting essentialism and re-placing species in a material feminist environmentalism. Feminist Formations, 23(2), 26-53. https://doi.org/10.1353/ff.2011.0017

Gaard, G. (2017). Critical ecofeminism. Lexington Books. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315640051-57

Giacomini, T., Turner, T., Isla, A., & Brownhill, L. (2018). Ecofeminism against capitalism and for the commons. Capitalism Nature Socialism, 29(1), 1-6. https://doi.org/10.1080/10455752.2018.1429221

Goodman, M. K., & Barnes, C. (2011). Star/poverty space: The making of the‘development celebrity.’ Celebrity Studies, 2(1), 69-85. https://doi.org/10.1080/19392397.2011.544164

Gössling, S., & Hall, C. M. (2021). The Sustainable Chef: The Environment in Culinary Arts, Restaurants, and Hospitality. Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315187488

Greenebaum, J., & Dexter, B. (2018). Vegan men and hybrid masculinity. Journal of Gender Studies, 27(6), 637-648. https://doi.org/10.1080/09589236.2017.1287064

Harris, D. A., & Giuffre, P. A. (2010a). «Not one of the guys»: women chefs redefining gender in the culinary industry. Williams, C.L. and Dellinger, K. (Ed.) Gender and Sexuality in the Workplace (Research in the Sociology of Work, Vol. 20). Emerald Group Publishing Limited. https://doi.org/10.1108/S0277-2833(2010)0000020006

Harris, D. A., & Giuffre, P. (2010b). «The price you pay»: How female professional chefs negotiate work and family. Gender Issues, 27(1), 27-52. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12147-010-9086-8

Hennchen, B. (2019). Knowing the kitchen: Applying practice theory to issues of food waste in the food service sector. Journal of Cleaner Production, 225, 675-683. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2019.03.293

Holmes, J. (2021). «Vegan studies and food studies». In L. Wright (ed), The Routledge Handbook of Vegan Studies (pp. 172-179). Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781003020875

Kelle, U., & Erzberger, C. (2003). Making inferences in mixed methods: The rules of integration. Sage.

Ketchum, A. (2016). Counter Culture: The Making of Feminist Food in Feminist Restaurants, Cafes, and Coffeehouses. The Journal of Canadian Food Cultures/Cuizine: Revue Des Cultures Culinaires Au Canada, 7(2). https://doi.org/10.7202/1038477ar

Koch, S. L. (2019). Gender and food: A critical look at the food system. Rowman & Littlefield.

Lea, R. (2020). The coronavirus crisis in the UK: an unprecedented recession. Arbuthnot Banking Group, 1. https://www.arbuthnotlatham.co.uk/sites/default/files/documents/1%20September%202020.pdf

Legard, R., Keegan, J., & Ward, K. (2003). In-depth interviews. Qualitative Research Practice: A Guide for Social Science Students and Researchers, 6(1), 138-169.

MacDonald, M. (2021). Maximum Plunder: The Global Context and Multiple Threats of Animal Agriculture. In C. Adams and L.Gruen (ed), Ecofeminism: Feminist intersections with other animals and the earth (pp. 355-373). Bloomsbury Publishing USA.

MacGregor, S. (2003). Feminist perspectives on sustainability. In D. V. J. Bell, & A. Cheung (Eds.), UNESCO Encyclopedia of Life Support Systems: Introduction to Sustainable Development (pp. 467-492). Eolss Publishers.

MacGregor, S. (2021). Making matter great again? Ecofeminism, new materialism and the everyday turn in environmental politics. Environmental Politics, 30(1-2), 41-60. https://doi.org/10.1080/09644016.2020.1846954

MacKendrick, N. (2014). Foodscape. Contexts, 13(3), 16-18. https://doi.org/10.1177/1536504214545754

Martin, P. Y. (1990). Rethinking feminist organizations. Gender & Society, 4(2), 182-206. https://doi.org/10.1177/089124390004002004

Martin-Rios, C., Demen-Meier, C., Gössling, S., & Cornuz, C. (2018). Food waste management innovations in the foodservice industry. Waste Management, 79, 196-206. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wasman.2018.07.033

Merchant, C. (1980). The Death of Nature: Women. Ecology, and the Scientific Revolution. Harper One.

Merchant, C. (1996). Earthcare: Women and the Environment. Environment: Science and Policy for Sustainable Development, 62(3), 17-27. https://doi.org/10.1080/00139157.2020.1750918

Meriot, S.A. (2006). Nostalgic Cooks: Another French Paradox. Brill. https://doi.org/10.1163/9789047417521

Morrison, A. M., White, R. P., White, R. P., & Van Velsor, E. (1987). Breaking TheGlass Ceiling: Can Women Reach The Top Of America’s Largestcorporations?Pearson Education.

Nilsson, G. (2013). Balls Enough: Manliness and Legitimated Violence in Hell’s Kitchen. Gender, Work and Organization, 20(6), 647-663. https://doi.org/10.1111/gwao.12001

NRS, S. (2021, April). Deaths involving coronavirus (COVID-19) in Scotland. National Records Of Scotland. https://www.nrscotland.gov.uk/statistics-and-data/statistics/statistics-by-theme/vital-events/general-publications/weekly-and-monthly-data-on-births-and-deaths/deaths-involving-coronavirus-covid-19-in-scotland

Ozili, P. K., & Arun, T. (2023). «Spillover of COVID-19: impact on the Global Economy». In U. Akkucuk (Ed.), Managing inflation and supply chain disruptions in the global economy (pp. 41-61). IGI Global. https://doi.org/10.4018/978-1-6684-5876-1.ch004

Pereira, L. M., Calderón-Contreras, R., Norström, A. V., Espinosa, D., Willis, J., Lara, L. G., Khan, Z., Rusch, L., Palacios, E. C., & Amaya, O. P. (2019). Chefs as change-makers from the kitchen: Indigenous knowledge and traditional food as sustainability innovations. Global Sustainability, 2. https://doi.org/10.1017/S2059479819000139

Pirani, S. I., & Arafat, H. A. (2016). Reduction of food waste generation in the hospitality industry. Journal of Cleaner Production, 132, 129-145. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2015.07.146

Pitman, S. D., Daniels, C. B., & Sutton, P. C. (2018). Ecological literacy and socio-demographics: Who are the most eco-literate in our community, and why? International Journal of Sustainable Development & World Ecology, 25(1), 9-22. https://doi.org/10.1080/13504509.2016.1263689

Plumwood, V. (1986). Ecofeminism: An Overview and Discussion of Positions and Arguments. Australasian Journal of Philosophy, 64(sup1), 120-138. https://doi.org/10.1080/00048402.1986.9755430

Plumwood, V. (2004). Gender, Eco-Feminism and the Environment. In R. White (Ed.), Controversies in Environmental Sociology (pp. 43-60). Cambridge University Press. https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511804434.004

Raynor, J. (2017, November 26). Is being a chef bad for your mental health? The Observer, 26 November. https://www.theguardian.com/society/2017/nov/26/chefs-mental-health-depression

Richardson, R. (2020). Bending the arc of COVID-19 through a principled food systems approach. Agriculture and Human Values, 37, 653-654. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10460-020-10048-2

Salmivaara, L., & Lankoski, L. (2021). Promoting sustainable consumer behaviour through the activation of injunctive social norms: A field experiment in 19 workplace restaurants. Organization & Environment, 34(3), 361-386. https://doi.org/10.1177/1086026619831651

Slocum, R., Shannon, J., Cadieux, K. V., & Beckman, M. (2011). «Properly, with love, from scratch» Jamie Oliver’s Food Revolution. Radical History Review, 2011(110), 178-191. https://doi.org/10.1215/01636545-2010-033

Spiegel, M. (1988). The Dreaded Comparison: Human and Animal Slavery. Mirror Books

Steinberg, R. J. (1992). Gender on the Agenda: Male Advantage in Organizations [Review of The Promise and the Price: The Struggle for Equal Opportunity in Women’s Employment.; In the Way of Women: Men’s Resistance to Sex Equality in Organizations.; Playing the State: Australian Feminist Interventions., by C. Burton, C. Cockburn, & S. Watson]. Contemporary Sociology, 21(5), 576-581. https://doi.org/10.2307/2075532

Sultana, F. (2021). Climate change, COVID-19, and the co-production of injustices: A feminist reading of overlapping crises. Social & Cultural Geography, 22(4), 447-460. https://doi.org/10.108/14649365.2021.1910994

Swan, E. (2020). COVID-19 foodwork, race, gender, class and food justice: An intersectional feminist analysis. Gender in Management: An International Journal.

Taylor, A., & Taylor, S. (2020). Solidarity across species. Dissent, 67(3), 103-105. https://doi.org/10.1353/dss.2020.0071

Warde, A., & Martens, L. (1998). Eating out and the commercialisation of mental life. British Food Journal. https://doi.org/10.1108/00070709810207513

Warde, A., & Martens, L. (2000). Eating out: Social differentiation, consumption and pleasure. Cambridge University Press. https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511488894

Warde, A., Martens, L., & Olsen, W. (1999). Consumption and the problem of variety: Cultural omnivorousness, social distinction and dining out. Sociology, 33(1), 105-127. https://doi.org/10.1177/S0038038599000061

Wood, R. C. (2017). «Now and when: Reflecting on some realities of consumer behaviour in the hospitality industry». In S.K. Dixit (ed), The Routledge Handbook of Consumer Behaviour in Hospitality and Tourism (pp. 69-77). London: Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315659657-9

Wylie, A. (2020). Climate conscious professional kitchens? Analysing the Scottish food sector through a feminist lens. Feminismo/s, 35, 95-125. https://doi.org/10.14198/fem.2020.35.04